Irish Fish Pie

If Irish Fish Pie isn’t already on your month’s menu, please add it now. Fish pie is a common meal in Ireland, and this dish was inspired by one that we enjoyed at Fishy Fishy restaurant in Kinsale while Jeremiah and I were visiting Ireland last year. We both loved it, and after our trip we craved it so much that I just had to try and create a fish pie at home as well. Growing up in a land-bound part of the country, I was never a fan of fish or seafood of any kind as a kid. (Except for maybe fish sticks once in a while.) But that may have been partly due to the lack of fresh fish in the area, since when I was in college I had the opportunity to try seafood again—fresh and well-prepared—and I realized I didn’t hate it after all. In fact, these days I could honestly say I love it. But even if you’re not a fish lover, this dish might surprise you. It’s made with mild-flavored cod and, balanced with the creamy potatoes and savory leeks, it really doesn’t have that “fishy” taste at all.

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This recipe is dedicated to my ancestor (through my grandpa Brent Bullough’s line) Richard Murphy (born around 1673 – died around 1759), who, according to family legend, was born in Ireland in the Avon Valley area, but at the age of seven, was kidnapped and brought to America with a group of colonists in about 1680. Once they arrived in Virginia, he worked as an indentured servant and was an apprentice to William Byrd I. When he was about 21 years old, he was released from his apprenticeship and not long after, he married Mary Elisabeth Byrd, the youngest daughter of William Byrd, a union that apparently angered his father-in-law, since he left Mary only a small inheritance as a result. (Which to me suggests they must have had a beautiful love story–I only wish I could go back for a glimpse of their courtship together.) This account of Richard Murphy’s life was recorded by his great-grandson Mark Murphy in their family’s Bible in 1793 as part of their family history. (How grateful I am to people who write and share these family stories.)

Whenever I read this story, I’m haunted by the thought of this small boy, stolen from his home at such a young age, facing a strange new world filled with hardship and empty of love. I wonder what he must have felt and experienced during those first lonely years. As a mother of boys, I think of his mother too, waiting anxiously for her little boy to come home and then, when he couldn’t be found, wondering, heavy with heartache as the days grew into years, what became of her kind, inquisitive child. 

It’s an image that breaks my heart—his parents and neighbors searching frantically, calling out, lanterns aloft—and him: alone, hungry, and cold; trapped on a ship that will carry him away forever from those voices that are calling out his name. Anyway, the thought of this boy adrift in the belly of this ship later being “spat out” in a new land makes me think of the Bible story of Jonah and the whale, so hence the association (in my mind) with fish. And while I’ll never know for sure, it seems likely that he may have had something similar to this fish pie as a child in Ireland. I do know that he would have had plenty of fish, dairy, and potatoes growing up, so he at least experienced a “deconstructed” version, if not a similar dish. I like to think that for him perhaps, it would be the taste of home.

In Ireland, we were served our fish pie with a few slices of Irish brown bread, which was a common side dish for many of our meals there. Because of that, I always bake a loaf of Irish brown bread when I make this dish, because it’s just the right hearty balance to offset the rich cream sauce in this pie. (I like this recipe from King Arthur Flour.) However, any whole grain bread would do, or even a crusty baguette if you prefer.

Here’s the recipe.

To start, preheat oven to 400 degrees.

For the mashed potatoes, peel and halve the potatoes, then place in a pot with enough cold water to cover the potatoes. Add about 2 Tbs salt, or enough to make the water salty, then cover and bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce heat and continue to cook until the potatoes are tender, about 10-12 minutes.

Drain the water and mash the potatoes with a potato ricer or other preferred method, then add the butter, cream, milk, salt, garlic powder, and cheese. Fold everything together to combine. If the potatoes seem too thick, add more milk as needed to reach a soft, spreadable consistency. Adjust seasoning as needed.

Cover the mashed potatoes to keep them warm, and set aside until the filling is ready.

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Meanwhile, while the potatoes are boiling, you can prepare the filling. First, chop the white and light green/yellow parts of the leeks. Leeks tend to be sandy, so to wash them, I usually put the chopped leeks in a bowl of cold water and mix them around with my hands to get them clean. Let them sit for a couple of minutes and the dirt and sand will sink to the bottom. Then scoop the leeks out into a colander or towel to drain any excess water, and discard the dirty water from the bowl.

Next, wash and chop the fennel bulb. The green stems are too tough to use, but if the fronds (leaves) are fresh, you can chop and use some of those too if you want.

Peel and chop the carrots.

Chop the semi-thawed cod fillets into 1-inch chunks, and set aside.

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In a large skillet or frying pan over medium heat, sauté the leeks, fennel, and carrots in the butter or oil, until they begin to tenderize. Add the salt, then cover and cook about two minutes more.

Add the garlic, thyme, pepper, and flour, then cook, stirring constantly, for about 2-3 minutes. Deglaze the pan using the cup of broth or water.

Add the half-and-half or cream and cook over medium heat until it starts to bubble. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Add the cod chunks, stirring to combine, cover, and cook for about 5-8 minutes until the cod is almost done. (It will still be soft but will be starting to turn white and flakey.)

Remove from heat and stir in the frozen peas. This will help bring the temperature down so the fish doesn’t overcook.

If your skillet is ovenproof, you can use it as your “casserole” dish if you want, but otherwise transfer the filling to a large casserole dish.

Gently spoon and spread the mashed potatoes over the filling.

The breadcrumb topping is optional, but I recommend it. If you want to skip it though, just sprinkle a half cup of shredded sharp cheese over the top of the potatoes before transferring to the oven.

For the breadcrumb topping combine breadcrumbs with seasonings, melted butter, and cheese. Sprinkle evenly over the mashed potatoes.

Bake the casserole in the 400 degree oven for 15 minutes, or until the breadcrumbs are toasted and golden and the filling/potatoes begin to bubble and turn golden around the edges.

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Your fish pie is done! Let it cool for about 10 minutes before serving, then sprinkle with a handful of chopped fresh parsley, if desired. Serve with a side of Irish Brown Bread, and you’ve got a wonderful meal.

Makes about 8 generous servings.